The Black Tomato Talent Scout

Back to reality with a bump

After a two week trip that felt more like a lifetime I’m now back in England, fighting my way onto the tube each morning and sitting at my desk dreaming of my next adventure...

The time I spent in Guatemala and Honduras was exceptional. I had an idea that I would be in for an experience of a lifetime from previous travels in neighbouring South America, but both countries exceeded my expectations. From the moment the plane touched down it was obvious that the local people were some of the friendliest I’d ever met - nothing was too much trouble and they were only too happy to help out. It was so refreshing to walk down the street and have everyone greet you with a smile and a "Buenos Dias" rather than avert their eyes or just push past you on the pavement.

To compliment the personality of the locals, the scenery in these countries is simply breathtaking. Their location on the edge of two colliding plates has led to tragedy throughout their history, but the landscape that it has created is stunning - never did I imagine that I’d ever see seven volcanoes in one vista and when Fuego started to smoke in the distance as we were climbing a distant mountain I just could not take my eyes away. I doubt any landscape will ever top the beauty and drama of that sight and if I was forced to choose a favourite moment that would have to be it.

The power of the volcano and the threat that it poses over every day life in Guatemala is astonishing. The country has suffered so many natural disasters and yet each time it rebuilds and carries on; showing the resilience and determination of the people here. It was a stunning sight, but also one that must provoke fear and uncertainty into the lives of those that live within the danger zone and added a greater perspective to my understanding of the lifestyle here.

There are many differences between Guatemala and Honduras. The volcanoes and traditional dress of the indigenous people define Guatemala for me with the friendliness of the people, taste of the pineapple (!) and abundance of rivers standing out for Honduras.

Something that surprised me in both countries was the amount that there is to do and the variety of ways in which you can do it. The opportunity to explore using such diverse methods makes the experience unique and my top tip for anyone travelling to this area would be to try and combine as many of the range as possible. I travelled by air, sea, bus and bike to name just a few and was lucky enough to fit in one or two different activities every day - kayaking on the lake, cycling down the mountainside, hiking through local plantations , riding along the beach - each activity added something different to the experience.

One of my favourite and yet also one of my most frightening moments was standing on the edge of the mountain before launching myself over the valley on a zip line. I don’t suffer from vertigo but the thought of flying through the air with the valley hundreds of metres below me certainly made me uneasy and I was on the verge of opting out. It was only a sense of true British stubbornness that made me go on (a flaw in my personality that has previously made me bungy jump and skydive also) but I am so glad that I did it

The lack of tourist crowds also stood out for me so compared to some of their Central American neighbours both Guatemala and Honduras are still relatively untouched by extensive tourism. Nature, history and culture, adventure and tranquillity can all be combined into one holiday and there are not many places that can offer that. My advice is to get there as quickly as you can! I’ll certainly be going back….

LIZ

Aqua Adventures...

My next mode of transport turns out to be a small 10 seater plane, which takes me from San Pedro Sula to La Ceiba. It’s not long before I’m back in the saddle though as I take an early evening ride on a Pasafino pony along the beach. The water rises to our waists as we pass through the mouths of the rivers. La Ceiba is blessed with beach, mountains and rivers all in one landscape and as the sun begins to set it provides the perfect backdrop for a gallop through the surf.

My home for the night is a split level cabin high on the mountainside in the buffer zone between two national parks. It boasts 360 degree views with mosquito netting replacing windows and no wall higher than your waist. Idyllic.

Next morning, an hour of hiking intermingled with rock jumps gets me used to the water before I embark on a white water rafting adventure. ‘Surfing’ is the aim of the day so each drop we go down we have to paddle back into and surf, thoroughly soaking ourselves and the boat!

As my journey comes to an end, I head to Roatan Island for some much deserved beach time where I’m met by a deserted stretch of Caribbean ocean. The water is crystal clear, beautiful deep turquoise – I grab a snorkel and decide to go for a dip. Less than a kilometre from the coast there are some fantastic shallow coral reefs providing an abundance of colourful fish to watch.

All too soon it's time for my final sunset and I’m treated to a beautiful display from our balcony. I really will be sorry to leave.....

LIZ

Cowboys Honduran Style

Breakfast overlooking the Copan Valley with only the birds for company – a complete contrast to my usual Monday morning commute and a moment I savour. The climate in Honduras is intense so after a 4km trek through the jungle I take a tuk tuk for the remainder of the journey up into the mountains to track down the scarlet Macaw – the national bird of the country.

In the evening I dine at the Hacienda San Lucas Eco-lodge nestled in the hills above the valley. It’s magical - lit by scented candles and with no electricity an amazing four course meal is served, all created in the wood fired oven that sits at the edge of the courtyard. A beautiful experience.

On Tuesday I visit a local Finca (ranch) about 25kms outside of town high in the mountains. As the altitude rises the vegetation becomes more dense and lush with bright greens, yellows and even reds merging to provide a fantastic vista. I’m greeted by Carlos, the owner’s son. He tells me that the farm has been in his family since the 19th century and currently they own 1000 hectares, a fraction of the original but still enough to graze cattle and horses as well as grow coffee and cardamom. Jaguars still reside within the surrounding forest, but are rarely spotted.

Small talk over and I’m in the saddle. A somewhat flighty horse called 'Prego' provides a challenging, but rewarding ride as we trek through the lush land and stop to swim in the local river downstream from a waterfall.  A lunch of delicious home-grown local food was washed down with fresh coconut milk and sweet pineapple juice… time for a siesta I think…

LIZ

Goodbye Guatemala, Hello Honduras…

The jungle wakes early and I’m tempted to get up for sunrise, but a heavy mist has fallen and is restricting visibility. When I do rise I search for some early wildlife and am rewarded by a Toucan up close and personal, showing off his colours for all to see.

I spend the morning delving deeper into the rainforest with a climb to the top of Templo V being the highlight. The view of the Mayan remains gave me an idea of what the site would have looked like when the Mayans were here with no jungle hiding its constructions. Tikal remains a mystery with many different theories as to why it was located where it was, there is no local water source so many reservoirs were created to support the 100,000 strong population at the height of it’s power. This concentration of people in one area was remarkable at that time in history.

As I board the bus that will take me on the 7 hour journey from the north of Guatemala to Honduras, I’m sad to be leaving behind this wonderful and inspiring country. Travelling by bus, however, gives me the chance to savour some of the most scenic routes in the country and exposes me to yet more variation. Heading off from the jungle we soon drop down into a Caribbean environment on the Rio Dulce and then through rolling hills before hitting almost desert like conditions just before we leave Guatemala and head to the small town of Copan Ruinas, Honduras….. a new country, a new adventure…

LIZ

Swinging through the trees – and I’m not just talking about the Howler Monkeys

It’s time to leave the calming shores of Lake Atitlan behind and head for a bit of adventure. On route, I witnessed Fuego, one of the active volcanoes, smouldering in the distance. At first glance I thought it was low lying cloud skirting it’s summit, but when I realised that it was actually fuming I could hardly believe it – it’s a memory I will hold many, many years to come.

I’m slightly nervous as I arrive for my zip line hiking adventure. Constructed between two mountain peaks with the valley hundreds of metres below, the main zip line is Central America’s longest at 400m long with a drop of 200m. My heart skipped a beat as I launched myself off the edge, but I soon embraced the thrill of travelling through the air straight in the direction of another mountainside! Between the peaks you have 360 views with the lake on one side and densely forested valley on the other. Exhilarating!

Once my feet were back on solid ground, I spent the afternoon exploring the depths of one of Guatemala's largest markets in the town of ´Chichi´. Whilst the market caters for the tourist crowd, I wandered down the side alleys to discover the hidden gems – dazzlingly colourful vegetable stalls and food stands with a pungent array of aromas. I could wander and browse at my leisure without being hassled.

The next day I headed to Flores in the northern territory of Guatemala. The landscape is different here - it’s flat and the absence of the undulating highlands is immediately noticeable. I headed to the Tikal national park, which is the only UNESCO world heritage site that is rated for both its natural and cultural qualities, and was treated to a family of Howler monkeys swinging through the trees on the search for food. The mother held her new born protectively before negotiating any of the leaps.

I arrived at the Lost World in time to scale its height and absorb the beauty before the sun disappeared. The buildings are spectacular in terms of their height and gradient and the climb involved huge strides to span each step, but the effort was worth it. Temple IV rises above the forest canopy so you look down on the surrounding forests. Pairs of green parakeets soar through the skies and flocks of colourful toucans grace you with their presence. In the distance I could hear the growling of the Howler monkeys staking claim to their area to all that care to listen. I sat down to watch the sunset and was not disappointed as a beautiful red sky developed as the sun cast it’s final rays across the treetops before disappearing beyond the horizon…..

LIZ

Sunrise Swim

A 6am wake up call from the local wildlife and a short stroll to the shores of the lake where I braved the waters for a sunrise swim.  It was a little chilly, but to have the lake all to myself with only the local fisherman for company was worth it.  They fish here 7 days a week for $4 US a day and were all too happy to show me their catch.

Steam was rising off the lake creating a mystic quality with the stunning San Pedro, one of the largest volcanoes in the area, as a back drop.  As the sun rose it caught the top of the volcano bringing all it's colours to life - what a perfect way to start the day…..

The hike through the local coffee plantation that followed was more challenging, but enabled me to interact with the local workers who are always ready with a 'Buenos Dias' and a wide smile displaying their teeth of gold, which are seen as a real status symbol throughout the country.

My final stop for the day was at the village of Santiago Atitlan, a small town that suffered badly during the civil war.  The poverty here is evident, as is the focus on religion – an interesting mix of Catholicism and Mayan ideas and principles.

Just in one day I feel like I’ve experienced so much of the diversity that Guatemala has to offer….   

LIZ

Cobbled Streets and Chicken Feet….

Awoke in Antigua to the cry of the rooster and the chiming of city bells.  Antigua is a beautiful old colonial city that was destroyed by an earthquake and after being rebuilt has become a world heritage sight.  Its cobbled streets and colourful buildings gives the feel of a small village for this town that was once the capital of Guatemala.

I took a converted local bus, an interesting vehicle that didn't seem to be happy in anything other than first gear (!), up to the relatively unexplored Alaskan mountain range.  At an altitude of over 3000m the scenery is truly spectacular - mist covered volcanoes, local villages or just miles of undulating hills and mountains. Having hiked through a sacred Mayan site, coming into contact with some local villagers working the fields, I switched to a mountain bike for a spectacular, if somewhat hair raising, 40 minute descent into the highland village of Totonicapan. Here I had the honour of staying with a local family in their home for the night and as Western tourists are a rarity here, my visit caused quite a stir.  The Guatemalans must be some of the friendliest people that I have ever come across on my travels and we wiled away the evening with my pigeon Spanish and a few entertaining hand gestures thrown in!

 

I spent the next morning exploring the authentic local markets where chicken heads and feet were sold next to interesting nik naks, such as piggy banks in the shape of fluorescent pink dogs….   A trip to Ixela, the Mayan name for the second city of Guatemala, with it’s awe inspiring vista of 6 volcanoes was the perfect stop off as I headed to Lake Atitlan for the night.  The lake is possibly the most beautiful in the world, formed from a crater and ringed by volcanoes and I’m lucky enough to be bedding down now in a hut soaking up the spectacular view over the lake - I can't wait for sunrise....

LIZ

3 and a half days and counting...

Malaria tablets have been taken, walking boots unearthed, swimming suit bought and weather forecasts are being viewed on an increasingly regular basis (generally coinciding with when the rain starts pouring down outside my Canary Wharf offices. I can honestly say that I'm more excited than I have ever been before a trip away. The prospect of exploring the depths of what Guatemala and Honduras have to offer is a truly inviting experience.

Due to their size in terms of land area and their location on the edge of a tectonic plate the variation in climate, topography and even culture is significant and provides a wealth of things to discover. From the jungle covered Mayan ruins at Tikal to the wonder of Lake Atitlan and it's surrounding volcanoes (many active) down to the shores of the Caribbean it is going to be a real challenge to fit it all into two weeks!

There won’t be much time for relaxation on this trip as I travel from one adventure experience to the next, but who needs to rest when there is a new country to explore.....

LIZ

And She's Off....

We’ve got our handkerchiefs at the ready as we prepare to wave a fond farewell to our talent scout winner, Liz Barber, as she heads off to the sunnier shores of Central America this weekend. Yes, it’s time for Liz to swap her blackberry for her back pack as we send her on a journey to unearth the hidden treasures of Honduras and discover the little known gems of Guatemala.

If we’re honest, we couldn’t help but feel a little green with envy as we set about putting together the final details of Liz’s adventure this week; from hiking and biking her way through the Alaska mountain range to lodging with the locals in Totonicapan, kayaking on Lake Atitlan to jungle trekking through the Peten rainforest. And that’s without mentioning the craft markets, workshops, hot springs, cattle ranching and coffee farms… we could go on…

but instead we’ll leave it to Liz - after all, she’ll be the one who will really be getting under the skin of these two relatively undiscovered countries (until now that is). We certainly can’t wait to keep up with her adventures.

Follow Liz’s journey of discovery as she regularly writes about her travels on Liz’s Blog